| I was born on Cabanocey 
              Plantation in St. James Parish, Louisiana. Although I didn't know 
              it at the time, just to be born there made a person part of history. 
              I was by no means part of a great plantation family like the Romans, 
              Cantrelles, Bringiers or Kenners. Quite the contrary, I came at 
              a time when men were land poor. The plantations were gifts from 
              our grandfathers and fathers before, handed down from one generation 
              to another. In many cases, a French Creole or Antebellum mansion 
              was considered an albatross for the family who inherited it. We 
              certainly did not consider it part of a great legacy. My great grandfather, 
              Victorin Zeringue, purchased Cabanocey in the early 1900s. With 
              over 750 acres, he and his wife, Evelie Robert, thought they were 
              destined for greatness. If anything, they were great landowners. 
              They made a good living, and in those days that was a triumph. Victorin and Evelie went on to have many children, one of them 
              my grandfather, Albert. Albert married Regina Waguespack, and together 
              they produced six more heirs to Cabanocey. One of them, my mother, 
              Therese, married Royley Folse and eight more heirs were born. My 
              mother, father and ancestors before were all good cooks. How could 
              they not be, having been reared in the heart of Cajun country. This 
              area of the United States somehow produces good cooks. There is 
              the Gulf of Mexico with its abundance of salt water seafoods, an 
              array of fresh-water lakes and rivers and of course, the lush, green 
              and tropical swampland. Each of these contributes equally to the 
              bounty that is Cajun and Creole cuisine. As a Cajun first and a chef second, it's important to remember 
              that culture is the cuisine of a people. 
              Often, young culinarians search for a base of good cooking while 
              failing to simply look at their own culture and environment. I have 
              come to realize that no cuisine can develop or expand where there 
              isn't a strong foundation of regional culture and ingredients. We 
              are fortunate, here in Bayou Country, to have the very best gift 
              that God has given anyone in ingredients destined for the pot. My 
              philosophy on cooking is just as simple. Choose first the heritage 
              of your people. Herein lies the spice and flavor of your very palate. 
              Choose secondly the ingredients of your area. Herein lies the uniqueness 
              of your creations. Lastly, practice simplicity. 
              There is an old jazz saying here in Louisiana, "mo is betta!" 
              In the world of cooking, this is the greatest fallacy. "Simplicity 
              is betta." The simple flavors are the ones we long for day 
              in and day out. Like all great artists, chefs must create a style 
              that is recognizable. In order to stand out, you should stay true 
              to your roots, stay true to your region and stay true to your heart 
              and soul. But most of all remember simplicity! In the words of Edith 
              Stern, builder of Longue Vue Gardens Plantation in New Orleans, 
              when asked what would be served to a great statesman coming to visit 
              her home, she replied, "The more important the guest, the simpler 
              and more regional the dish." |